Log Cabin Maintenance

Log Cabin Maintenance Costs: The Guide to Cabin Maintenance

Owning and living in a log cabin is a fantastic and privileged experience; being surrounded by such a beautiful, natural, and rustic environment can provide you with such tranquil feelings.

Having visited hundreds of log homes and being fortunate to own a log cabin, one of the common questions I’m asked about is the maintenance of log homes – especially the exterior lumber.

Whilst log cabin maintenance can depend upon site location, design prudence, maintenance and environmental factors; one thing is for sure, routine log home maintenance is an often-neglected step for ensuring the longevity of your home.

When we advise log cabin owners on ongoing care of their log home, very often they have previously received more bad information than good. So, we’ve decided to create the ultimate guide to log cabin maintenance. We start by discussing the costs of repair and maintenance by focusing on our six step process:

  1. Inspecting
  2. Washing
  3. Staining
  4. Caulking
  5. Pest Control
  6. General Maintenance

We then conclude with the dos and don’ts of maintenance and some handy maintenance advice. Carry on reading as we take you through the most effective guide to log home maintenance.

Cost of Log Cabin Maintenance

Cost of Log Cabin Maintenance

Maintaining a log home should be a bi-annual activity, specifically during spring and fall. Regular maintenance of your log cabin reduces the damage from UV, water, insects, and air infiltration.

During spring you will want to give specific focus to any water damage to exterior wood from freezing water and snow and then preparing your cabin for higher temperatures during the summer.

Whereas in the fall you will be paying specific attention to an infestation of bugs, faded staining, and then get your log home ready for a cold winter!


Sticking to a regular maintenance schedule is far more effective and cheaper than irregular repair and fixes.

First step… Inspections

Inspect your log home
Knowing that your log home requires maintenance isn’t enough; you should have a proactive approach to inspecting various elements of your log home during different seasons.

Once in spring and once in fall, take a nice slow walk around the perimeter of your cabin to fully appraise the maintenance work required.

You will want to look specifically at areas that are exposed to the most severe weather and temperature conditions – so start at the south of your cabin. As you start walking, look for issues (e.g. cracking, mold, infestation) especially near doors, windows, roof connections, and exposed log ends.

When inspecting the roof look for; damaged or loose shingles and tiles, warped flashing, leaky or full gutters, or exposed rafters. Pay close attention to the chimney – look for; damaged flue pipes, loose flashing, cracks between the flue pipe and chimney or chimney and roof.

When inspecting the walls try to find; loose or cracking caulk, cracks or checking in the timber, popped knots, signs of damp, mildew or mod, faded stain, and splashback (i.e. from gutters).

When inspecting the surroundings; make sure plants and pots are at least 24” away from your log walls, decking and railings have no erosion or loss areas, drainage, and check for no standing water.

Second step… Washing (Annually)

Wash and clean your log cabin
Washing your cabin is a great opportunity to remove any surface-level dirt such as dust, mildew, pollen, bird feces, and insect deposits (i.e. spider webs, eggs, etc…).

The best technique I would recommend to wash your cabin is to use a mild detergent and a soft-bristle brush. One of the better detergents is X-180’s Weathered Wood Restorer. It will cost around $150 for 5 gallons. Make sure to mix the detergent with warm water (not boiling) using a 50:50 ratio.

We recommend two cleans (once bottom-up and once top-down);

To start with, work your way from the bottom-up. Initially wet the logs and then applying the detergent mix with a soft bristle brush by gently scrubbing in circles – this will avoid streaking of your logs.


Focus on dark patches in the timber – this is typically caused by splashback.

Once you’ve cleaned the cabin from the bottom up, focusing on specific areas of mold and mildew, then work from the top down for the final clean. This will avoid dirt being washed into areas you’ve previously cleared.

Give the cabin a final hose down and let it dry for three or four days before doing any further maintenance. Once dry this can be a good opportunity to inspect if your cabin requires fresh staining.

Third step… Staining (Once every three years)

Painting stain on a log cabin
The first application of stain will typically last two years. After the first application, the stain can last up to three years depending on how many coats you apply and the quality of the stain you use.

Typically whichever part of your cabin is exposed to direct sunlight (i.e. south facing gable) will require re-staining more frequently.

The best way to assess the condition of your cabin’s stain is;

  • If you have a latex-based stain then if the finish has become dull and faded it’s time to apply a new coat of stain.
  • If you have an oil-based stain then look at the knots in the logs, if they have become blonde then it’s time to apply a new coat of stain too.

If you haven’t recently washed your cabin, then another quick check is to spray some water on the logs. The water should bead and very quickly run down the cabin.

The best oil-based stain I’ve used is TWP. For my cabin at 2,000 square foot, I required 35 gallons for two coats which costs $2,300. As I stain my cabin every three years this works out to an annual cost of $767 for log cabin stain.


The best way to stain your cabin is to work in smaller horizontally complete areas and paint wet on wet.

To start with making sure you have properly cleaned and prepared your cabin. The key to ensuring the stain lasts for three or more years is the quality of your preparation.

Once your cabin has thoroughly dried you can apply your stain. Initially apply the stain using a garden sprayer and then back brush the stain. I find a garden sprayer to be just as effective as a commercial sprayer.

See the video below for a guide on how to stain and back brush;

YouTube video

Work in smaller full-width sections as this will help prevent any lap marks. After the first coat has been applied, wait 20 minutes, and apply the second coat whilst the stain is still wet. This is known as a wet-on-wet technique.

Use the same technique of spraying and back-brushing for the second coat of stain too.

Once you’ve completed staining you will need to wait for another two to three days for it to dry before sealing.

Fourth step… Sealing (Annually)

Fixing chinking on a log home
Caulkingis a very flexible sealant that is used during the construction of your log home to seal the joins between the two logs.


Sealant to logs is the mortar to bricks.

Caulk should last for well over two decades providing it’s been applied correctly using a backing rod – typically only drastic temperatures accelerate the degradation in caulk such as cold-rainy seasons or severe heat. Older cement-based materials require far more maintenance than today’s supple elastomeric materials which move with your cabin as it settles.

The most common application of caulking when maintaining your cabin will be for sealing gaps or cracks in the timber. Splitting and cracking is a very natural and common characteristic of timer and it’s known as “checking”.

The best rule of thumb is any crack or check over 2cm then seal it to prevent water pooling or bugs nesting.

We would recommend using either Log Jam Chinking or PermaChink for this type of maintenance.

For a typical log home measuring 2,000 square feet, you will require no more than 5 gallons of this material a year; this will cost you $230.

Fifth step… Pest Control (Annually)

Timber has always been vulnerable to bugs and insects; especially softer sapwood. Regular cleaning, filling cracks, dusting and fumigation are typically sufficient when it comes to routine maintenance preventing pests from entering your cabin. Also Seek out Carpenter bee holes as potential indicators of infestation.

If you have a specific issue with bugs or insects it might be worth reading our remedial action guide on keeping your log home bug free!

Sixth step… General Maintenance (Annually)

General maintenance
Clearing gutters, controlling and monitoring the water flow and run-off is very important for your log cabin – more so than a traditional home. Your cabin’s logs can become darkened by splashback from water very quickly, which can cause decay, infestation, and many other expensive problems. You would first notice this when cleaning your cabin if certain patches are darker than others.

It’s important to check your gutters are clear of obstacles such as forage and leaves, this will prevent them from overflowing. Then check each downspout carries the water run-off to a suitable location – away from your cabin.

When doing your bi-annual inspection if you notice any gaps between the windows and doors the best repair is to use expanding foam. If the gaps are large then you would notice cold air flowing into your cabin, but, smaller gaps are harder to notice. I’ve previously used foam guns that can be loaded with cans of pressured expanding foam – this typically costs around $75.

The average maintenance cost for a 2,000 square feet cabin is around $1,350 per year:

  • $150 for 5 gallons of mild cleaning detergent
  • $767 for 35 gallons of log cabin stain every three years
  • $230 for caulking
  • $75 for general maintenance (e.g. foam gun, guttering, downspouts).

Dos and Don’ts of Log Cabin Repair

Do This!

Regular and proactive maintenance
We are firm believers that with the right care, and regular scheduled maintenance, taking care of your log home is an investment that will pay for itself multiple times over! Following the advice in the post will help you ensure you don’t require emergency repairs or restoration resulting from neglect.

Don’t do this!

Power/Pressure Washers
Being proactive and sticking to a good maintenance routine is essential, but, make sure to not go overboard. Regular use of a pressure washer will cause long-term damage to your logs by forcing water through the logs into your home and causing the logs to swell. The result could be accelerated log decay. Remember some surface layers of mold and mildew can age your cabin and really give it a rustic feel. If you do decide to use a pressure washer for speed or convenience then don’t use anything greater than 500 psi and don’t get any closer than two feet to the cabin.

If you only take one thing away from this blog post, regular maintenance is the only way to militate against what can otherwise become a very expensive restoration job!

If you have any questions or restoration advice you would like to share then feel free to post a comment below.


  • I am thinking of purchasing a log home that the homeowner covered in vinyl to reduce maintenance. Is there any way I can get a good inspection done with this?

    • Hi Kathy,

      Vinyl is typically the cheapest finish possible. Are the logs covered in vinyl or is it a wooden framed house with a faux vinyl finish (i.e. is the vinyl shaped to look like logs)?

      When inspecting the house, look for chips and breaks, as vinyl is very easy to break!

      Vinyl is easy to fix and should last forever, but, make sure it hasn’t been excessively weathered or washed.


    • I have a log cabin 4000 sq feet needs to be power washed and then stained how much am I looking at to pay

  • I am looking at buying a log home, the current owners covered logs in a dark brown paint, is this a draw back on it and what can I do?

    • Hi Mickey,

      This really depends upon what tree the cabin is built from.

      Have you tried sanding a small spot on the cabin to see if the paint has absorbed through into the logs? Alternatively look at the south facing wall (as it will be weathered the most).

      If you sand back the paint enough you can restore the original logs, however, this will take a long time!

  • Hi David,
    I am considering buying a log home that looks to have not been very well maintained. The wood is various shades of grey with some black(appears to be decay). Would it cost a fortune to repair the exterior? Are there additional consideration when the house is 15 years old? It is approximately 4000 sq ft so the maintenance would not be something that I nor my family could handle individually.

  • Hi David,

    I am looking at buying a log home built in 1976, and it doesn’t have any chinking in between the logs. What is the estimated cost to have a professional chink the house? The square footage is around 2000 sq ft.



    • Hi Chad,

      If the cabin hasn’t been chinked then I would look to fully assess the condition of the cabin, especially the logs. The cabin has gone 40 years without chinking.

      In terms of estimating cost, I would suggest around $2-$3 per linear foot for a professional to chink the cabin. So assuming that your cabin is around 8FT tall (with each log having a 12″ butt), I would guess around $6,500 – $10,000.

      I would suggest it’s much cheaper to chink the cabin yourself!
      Hope this helps,

  • Hi David,

    I need to stain a 2400sqft cabin that has been sanded 2 years ago. Would we need to sand it again since it’s been sitting like that for 2 years ?

    Im not sure if it has a coat of stain on it since I haven’t seen the cabin yet. So would I need to resand it again if it has a coat of stain on?

    Could you give me a price on how much I would need to charge for labour on a 2400sqft log house ? One with staining 1 coat only and the other with sanding and staining 1 coat.

    Thank you!!! I hope this made sense!!

  • Update:

    Sanding and staining has been done 2 years ago. Now it just needs to be refreshed with staining only. How many coats would you recommend and how much would labour cost for 1 coat of a 2400sqft log house without material included?

    Thanks again!

    • Hi Marianne,

      Depending on the brand of staining you choose, you should stain 2-3 times.

      My favorite stain is TWP which is an oil based stain which will cost you roughly $2800.

      Depending on who you choose to stain the exterior of your home, the price could range anywhere from $30 per hour to $80 per hour for a specialist log cabin contractor.

      Depending on whether you prepare the logs, or you pay someone to do this, you can expect the job to take around 1-3 days.

      Hope this helps! I’d love to see the results when you get around to doing it.

      Thanks, David

  • I purchased a log home 2 years ago. It is 3 stories , original was built in 1703. There are add on’ s ( kitchen,3rd floor, laundy, and master bed and bath) I am curious what type of up keep I need to do on the interior log and chinking? The exterior is updated with vinyl siding .

    • Hi Lisa,
      It depends on the condition of the interior. You can follow the same steps as the exterior if it requires that.
      Please email us if you would like to know any further information, david@logcabinhub.com.
      Kind regards, Kate

  • Hi there!

    I’m looking at a log cabin that was built in the 70’s and the logs are painted. I know that painting the logs is generally a bad idea, however it seems to be holding up and no rotting logs. What I want to know is can I caulk painted logs?

    • Generally we wouldn’t recommend painting logs. If it were my cabin, I’d be tempted to remove the paint, re-stain, then chink it.


  • Hi! I am looking to buy a cabin built around 1940. The exterior of the cabin is covered with aluminum siding so I can’t see the condition of the logs. What would you recommend in regards to the unknown condition


  • I was wondering if anyone has opinions/advice on log cabin kits/prefabbed cabins. And I know it depends on the reliability of manufacturer and workmanship of the builders. Are they as good of quality as DIY cabins? Do they last as long? Pros and Cons of prefab/kit vs. DIY..Just looking for opinions/advice.

  • Hi,

    We have recently purchased a 1,300 square foot log home. The previous owner of 10 years did nothing to maintain the home’s exterior, It has greyed and has areas that look almost black. We are currently looking into restoration bids and so far they are extremely pricey. Would first stripping the logs be required to wash and restain the home? Or would going without stripping be an equally wise choice?


    • Hi Emily, if the logs haven’t been stained or treated in over 10 years, I would suggest corn blasting and starting again. It wouldn’t be a wise idea to just stain the logs again; especially if there are dark patches.

  • I bought log Home 3yrs ago. I knew when I purchased the Log Home it needed to be stained or painted. I’ve noticed over theirs the previous owner used chalk between the logs. The chalk is old and cracking. Chalk was used to make the Logs airtight. Should I try and remove the old chalk and use a 100% silicone to reseal the cabin?

    • Hi Darrin,

      Yes if the caulking is peeling off then removing and replacing the caulking is a good approach. Caulking should last for well over 20 years, what type of caulking was used?

  • Hi,
    I bought 29 year old 850 sq. feet log cabin in Pa. Don’t know the last time it was clean and stained. It also has many checks that need to be filled. I found a product from the rot doctor. It’s a two part epoxy. Is this better to uses then caulking. Thank you and GOD bless.

    • Hi Lindy, this cost is totally dependent on who is doing the sanding. If you are doing it yourself, you’ll only need to consider the materials you’ll use and your time, whereas if you you contract someone in, they’ll charge an average hourly rate, or give you a quote for the whole job. I suggest contacting some local builders. I hope that helps!

  • Hello, I’m looking to buy a log cabin that I’m guessing to be around 30 years old. To me it looks to be in decent shape but fear someday logs will start to rot even with proper yearly maintenance. So my question is if I keep up the maintenance how many years can you get out of a log cabin? Oh another thing is it was never chinked from what I can tell.

    Thank you very much

  • Carpenter bees have drilled holes in the log home. I have bought sprays, traps, and filled the holes I could reach with foam spray killer and putty. The back of the cabin is too tall for me to reach and I feel like some damage is there. What would be the best protection and/or stain (cabin needs staining too) to deter the bees? We would like to purchase the home but are concerned about damage and cost of upkeep.

    • Hi Robin, Thanks for your question. There are a few different paints that you can use to deter the bees. Polyurethane paints are the best bet. They are typically just a temporary solution though and will need to be reapplied annually. There are also a few stains, NBS-30, deltamethryn-based insecticides, and BeeGone. Let me know how you get on! David

  • Does a prefab log home need chinking on the outside? Our log home isn’t chinked on the outside. We have been told that the logs should only be stained with an oil based stain and not sealed. Is that true? Your maintenance article was very helpful. Thank you.

    • Hi Holli, Thanks for your message. It depends how well the logs are joined as to whether chinking is needed. Feel free to send some pictures to our email and I can advice you further. Thanks, David

  • Hi! The cabin we purchased was built in 2003 (we got it in 2013). The logs were dark and had never been treated in 10 years, so we had it bleached, stripped/stained and poly coated (costing $5,500 total). We were told to contact him to come back to do a maintenance poly coat the exterior at a minimal charge (under $1K) – we asked for the quote for that today and he wants $3,500 to just do external poly (labor and materials)…doesn’t that seem expensive? The exterior still looks beautiful after 6 years, but he had said to contact him after 5 years for this “maintenance.” Thank you!

    • Hi Denise, that does seem rather expensive, have you thought about doing it yourself or getting in touch with other maintenance companies to compare quotes? David

  • Hi David,

    First let me start by thanking you for taking the time to read and hopefully responding to my question.
    We bought a log cabin 8 years ago we love it. My question is does anyone paint the inside logs if so what type of paint to use. Or do you have any recommendations to clean the logs inside.
    Greatly appreciate your feed back.

    • Hi Linda, yes it is possible to paint the logs on the inside. The type of paint you choose will depend on the final finish you want, and whether you want to maintain the typical log look or change the color. I’d recommend using an oil based stain. Thanks, David

  • We are looking at a log home that is roughly 40 years old. All indications are that it is structurally sound and has no rot or lingering maintenance issues.

    However, at some point whether current or in it’s past, it has been inhabited by smokers. If we were to purchase it, we would remove all carpet, pad, drapes…essentially all soft materials, which I’m sure will help. If this were not a log home, the answer is pretty simple – paint all the walls and ceilings with a sealing primer, and then finish painting.

    What can we do (if anything) to all the log walls and wood-sided walls in the house that we do not want to paint? Is there a proven remedy for removing smoke smell from the inside of a log home?


    • Hi Jake, thanks for your question. You can strip the stain, give the bare wood a light mist with 3% hydrogen peroxide, let it sit for a few minutes, wipe it off with a lint free cloth and let it dry for 24 hours before staining again. White spirit vinegar is an alternative for hydrogen peroxide but NEVER mix the two of them, it makes peracetic acid that will do more damage than good. Always test whatever product you’re using on an inconspicuous area to ensure the wood won’t be bleached or marred. Thanks, David.

  • Hi David,
    I am looking at buying a log home that is 27 years old. Seems for atleast the past 10 years there is no maintenance. Has a metal roof so I am only concerned with the logs.
    The exterior logs look warn on all sides except for the covered north side. The house is 3 stories tall so no chance I can do the work myself.
    House is 2400 sq ft. I am not sure what it would cost to fix up. Any chance these logs are still good?
    Thanks In Advance

  • Like others I am considering buying a log home. It was built of solid white pine logs in 2005. The house appears to be well kept up, with the outside being washed and stained outside regularly. The logs on the interior are in great shape and I am not what if any maintenance done. The home is approximately 2500 square feet. What can I expect as ongoing annual maintenance expenses? Log homes look great but are they worth the expense? Thanks.

  • We, my husband and I, have purchased a home built of logs in 1935. The outside has been covered with stucco, but we are removing much of the lathe and plaster from the interior walls and wish to leave many of the log walls exposed.

    One of the walls in particular has cement spots from when the wall was chinked years ago. What is the best way to clean these spots from the wall without damaging the logs? (This wall was originally an exterior wall but when a porch was enclosed, became an interior wall; the chinking is cement.)

    Thanks for your help.


    • Hi Gail, thank you for coming to Log Cabin Hub with your question. You may have to sand down the cement spots with a coarse grit sandpaper first or a scraper; just be careful not to scratch or score the wood. The remaining film of cured cement can be removed with a solvent such as spirit vinegar which dissolves the calcium in the lime, but won’t mark the logs. Soak a clean cloth in spirit vinegar and gently rub the cement spots with it in a circular motion until they come off… and then email a picture of the finished result to david@logcabinhub.com! Thanks, David.

  • We got a new roof in 2018, but this winter, there is a line of dripping coming from our ceiling that follows the grooves of the tongue’n’groove ceiling from one end of the roof to the other. There doesn’t seem to be any damage to the roof, and the roofers told us it’s condensation from having a vaulted ceiling, and that we need to keep the humidity low and keep fans running. BUT, there is zero condensation on our windows or anything else. (It’s a Michigan winter, it’s already dry!) We do have a vented ridge cap, (before the new roof, we did not,) but our soffits are not vented. Could replacing the soffits with vented soffits fix this problem? (I think the previous owners must have also had this problem, there is previous stains in the same areas of the ceiling, but this is the first time it’s ever happened to us in the 10+ yrs we’ve lived here.) I really appreciate your help, log cabins are very different than “normal” houses! Thank you!

    • Hi Erin, fixing problems in this manner takes a diagnostic approach. If it is a condensation problem then yes, vented soffits would help resolve the issue as long as you have some ventilation lower down too, as humid air sinks. Thanks, David.

  • Hi,
    I am trying to get an idea how much most log home maintenance contractors charge per ft for caulking and chinking. It probably varies but I cant find a single good reference for cost on labor and materials.

    • Hi Eli, this varies hugely depending on region and materials. Your best bet would be to contact a few local contractors and compare the estimated quotes. Many thanks, David

  • David,

    My fiance and I are buying a beautiful log home in NC. The home was built in 1996 and has a dark stain. I have no idea if the exterior maintenance has been done properly. The home has a covered porch wrapping around three sides, which is a great thing for the logs, and two front dormers and a large shed dormer on the rear. There are some “greyed” areas on a few of the more exposed areas (splash back areas and the more exposed un-porched back of the home). I know a good cleaning is needed, and then a good staining followed by sealing. The home is flat faced hand hewn dovetail notched tongue and groove log profile. It has a chinking groove that was never chinked, and I’ve been told it is a personal choice, not a necessity, to chink that groove. What are your thoughts on removing/staining/blending the greying areas, initial cleaning using a pressure washer along with a TSP solution, and using an airless sprayer to apply and back brush the strain and sealer, and to chink or not to chink? F.Y.I. I was a professional painter for 15 years, so I’m versed in the proper use of a pressure washer and, of course, spray equipment. I’ve also had excellent results using Superdeck products on exterior wood, but zero experience with log home maintenance. By the way, your page, by far, is the BEST I have come across! Oh! The home footprint is 34’x24′, 1500 sqft, and I’m thinking the dormers and eaves are some form of log siding, not full logs. Thank you!

    • Hi Mark, thanks for your kinds message and congratulations on the purchase of your log home in NC!
      Here are a few things to bear in mind;
      If the cabin hasn’t been chinked, you’ll need to make sure that the cabin is fully water tight before you use the pressure washer on it.
      I’m sure as you have experience in using a pressure washer, that you’ll know to keep it steadily moving along the width of the logs, and don’t keep it in one area for too long as this could damage them.
      The stain and sealant will be fine and should really bring the cabin back to life. In terms of chinking, it really is down to personal preference. I like to the look of chinking, and the many added benefits so personally I would use it.
      All the best, David

  • Thank you for this website. We are first time log cabin owners and for now we would like to have a professional with experience in log homes do the annual inspection and repairs as needed. What is the best way to locate an experienced pro other than just asking?

    • Hi Paul, any reputable log cabin builders or manufacturers within your area should be able to recommend the appropriate professional. Many thanks, David

  • I have rotten lower logs on my log cabin. What does it cost to have some rotten logs replaced. Do they charge by the foot? Or??

    • Hi Randal, if you haven’t already I would recommend calling a log home restoration company in your area to get yourself a quote. They will give you more information than I can. Thanks, David.

  • Great info. I was wondering what the best method for sanding down old stain on a log home? Can you use a sander? We have purchased a log home where some of the stain has warm down to greying wood on the south side. I’m assuming I will need some more aggressive sanding rather than just stripping? To be able to apply fresh stain evenly?

    • Hi, Mike. Generally, any sanding method is appropriate using around 180-220 grit paper – obviously, any power sander will make the job easier. The sections that have ‘greyed’ are no longer stained, so you would have to assess whether they are rotting or just a bit weathered. Consider staining with a darker color. Thanks, David.

  • Hey I have a log cabin and there are 3-4 6-10foot sections on the foundation that have rotted what is a fair price to have them replaced?

  • Hello, we recently purchased a log home. The house seems sturdy and I would say the previous owners did a fair job at maintaining it. However, we have had some issues. We have carpenter bees which we are having exterminated. The roof is in decent shape and we have not seen any leaks but the interior logs have some stains. Do you have any suggestions on stain removal. Are the stains permanent water damage? Or is this natural absorption from humidity? I am also looking to shine up the interior. Looking for a brighter appearance. Can you use polyurethanes on the interior logs? Thank you

  • Hi, looking for some tips to shine and clean interior logs. Can a regular polyurethane be used? Thank you

  • Hi David, I was wondering about maintenance for a cedar log cabin. I live in Saskatchewan, Canada and the cedar would come from British Columbia. What are the pros and cons of cedar built cabins. Thanks, Donna

  • Im cleaning a log cabin 2600 square feet approximately 4016 linear ft of energy seal needed. Some old caulk is still between the logs. Do I need to remove all this old caulk or seal over?

    Also wanting to stain the log cabin. I’m not sure what is normal price for staining per square foot?

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